Category Archives for For Surfers

A Sinaloan Road Trip: Why Surfers Risk Everything for Waves

Everyone said I shouldn’t go. “It’s dangerous down there right now,” they told me. In fact, just a few kilometers from where we were staying, two Australian surfers disappeared last November. According to reports, they were pulled over by assassins dressed in police uniforms and shot. Lit on fire and burned beyond recognition. The authorities had […]

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Are You Addicted To Surfing?

It’s been almost one week without surf now and I am starting to go a little crazy. You? Sometimes beer helps, but only a little. People ask me “are you addicted to surfing?” Sure I am, but why? I wanted to dig a little deeper into the physicality of surfing addiction. Psychology today talks about […]

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Where is Your Surfboard’s Heart?

What is a surfboard blank? blank is perhaps the most important part of a surfboard and yet it is the least talked about component in surfing. If a blank were a human it would be the heart, as it is the core of a surfboard. If you were an artist, the blank would be your […]

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It Only Takes One

“Do you bring the bong? No, I thought you brought it!” This trip has been like a Cheech and Chong bong party, without the bong! Traveling isn’t always easy, different beds, snoring friends, babies crying, funky food, “for the last time, vegetarian does not mean I eat chicken god damn it!” There is nothing like […]

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